First signs of a new build

 This week, I scarphed together two lengths of soft maple.  Why maple?  Because I can get it in approximately 8-foot lengths of 1/2" thickness by 8-9" width at an okay price.  It is a hard wood destined for a canoe-styled hull.  I used an 8/1 scarph ratio which is more than required.  The scarph was made initially with a hand power plane for gross reduction, then followed with a belt sander and medium grit.  The resulting surfaces were flat and mated well.  Epoxy adhesive was followed by clamps.  I have three hand belt sanders.  Why didn't we have them in junior high shop class!  Planes can produce 'chips'; belt sanders never do.

   With epoxy and paint, also kept indoors, weather will not be a factor for the maple in this hull. Once scarphed together, I ran the combined board through a thickness planer to bring the thickness down to a uniform 7/16" (0.435").  Why that thickness?  Because I wanted a balance of weight, strength, and flexibility for the slight rocker planned.  These were rough boards when received, thickness was not uniform, and they initially were not entirely straight.  I corrected the side curve with a hand plane and frequent checking with a straight edge.  The product now is straight, uniform, and has the flexibility desired while retaining sufficient strength.  This will be the plank keel creating a foundation, tying all the frames together. 

Today, I bought lumber for the frames: knotty alder.  Why knotty alder?  It is a beautiful hardwood, but relatively light, and at a reasonable price.  Of course, I hand selected the best boards and bought excess (perhaps enough for a next hull).  The drawback is the knots present but, for the frames, I will be bonding together rather short lengths of wood.  I think I can work around the knots. 

New lumber.  The keel is maple, overall length 136".  Current width is 8".  The other boards are 1/2-inch-thick knotty alder.  As you can see, the knots are not too distracting.  I can buy 1/2x5 1/2 boards, which I can't produce on my home saws.  The frames will be 1/2-inch thick, and most will be 1 1/2 wide, but with 5 1/2 overall board widths, I will not be limited if I want a wider piece for a frame.

There will be twelve frames, symmetrically spaced fore and aft.  These are full-size rosin paper patterns.  At the turn of the bilge, I will need to use narrower strip planks to follow the curve.

Next job: start on the frames.