Creating the Skeleton of a Boat Hull
My guide boat design is symmetrical at both ends. It makes for simplicity in building and results in needing only one oarlock location. Calculating the location of each frame along the sheer curve is best done by measuring from the midpoint toward both ends. (For reference, the equation used is listed in my blog post of Feb. 11, 2015, Sail Design)
X-dimension at keel: 5.75 17.75 29.75 41.75 53.75 65.75 71.75 83.75 89.75
Sheer dimension: 5.78 17.85 29.91 42.19 54.67 67.43 73.92 86.99 93.52 (inches)
Most of the frames are set in place on the keel in this photo. This was just practice to see if everything fit as planned. The keel sits on paint buckets and most frames are held in place with bungee cords.
If you look closely you can see some wood wedges under the paint buckets. The keel has been checked for straightness and twist and two battens, marked for sheer lengths, have been clamped in place. The frames have been mated to the keel with epoxy. This entire setup is somewhat self-aligning. I used a square to check that the frames are vertical; no adjustment was required. If this simple set up didn't do the job, I would have been forced to create an entire strongback to force alignment.
These are the two stems mated with the end frames using epoxy. The next step will be to bond these stems and the final two frames in place on the keel. With ten frames already in place, and clamped sheer battens marked for the proper lengths, it shouldn't be difficult to get these bonded in the proper positions. Then, three more battens/stringers will be added to each side. At that point it should look rather boat-like. Two future steps where I anticipate difficulty (time consuming) are fairing the hull and fitting the garboards.
The hull is starting to come together. You never have too many clamps for boat building.
It looks much like a wide canoe, but the 44" beam will allow the use of oars. The 18 degree deadrise creates a narrow waterline width while allowing a low seating position.
The stem pieces came together perfectly using the calculated half-angle of 21.8 degrees and the half length for the curved sheer stringer of 93.52".
X-dimension at keel: 5.75 17.75 29.75 41.75 53.75 65.75 71.75 83.75 89.75
Sheer dimension: 5.78 17.85 29.91 42.19 54.67 67.43 73.92 86.99 93.52 (inches)
Most of the frames are set in place on the keel in this photo. This was just practice to see if everything fit as planned. The keel sits on paint buckets and most frames are held in place with bungee cords.
If you look closely you can see some wood wedges under the paint buckets. The keel has been checked for straightness and twist and two battens, marked for sheer lengths, have been clamped in place. The frames have been mated to the keel with epoxy. This entire setup is somewhat self-aligning. I used a square to check that the frames are vertical; no adjustment was required. If this simple set up didn't do the job, I would have been forced to create an entire strongback to force alignment.
These are the two stems mated with the end frames using epoxy. The next step will be to bond these stems and the final two frames in place on the keel. With ten frames already in place, and clamped sheer battens marked for the proper lengths, it shouldn't be difficult to get these bonded in the proper positions. Then, three more battens/stringers will be added to each side. At that point it should look rather boat-like. Two future steps where I anticipate difficulty (time consuming) are fairing the hull and fitting the garboards.
The hull is starting to come together. You never have too many clamps for boat building.
posted by Wayne @ 4:11 PM
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